Chocolate Macarons

Chocolate Macarons

Macaron with chocolate ganache

Remember my resolution to espouse joy, accept my weakness for sugary treats and let the professionals worry about the camera work? Well, today I share with you one of the highlights of my food writing career and a few less than stellar pictures.

Recently, I spent an afternoon at Bonnie Gordon College with Master Chocolatier Derrick Tu Tan Pho. Not only did I learn a lot about one of my favourite edible culinary inspirations, I got to make impossibly shiny macarons and near-nebulous mousse alongside some of my favourite human culinary inspirations. Forgive me if I name drop or two but wouldn’t you get a little excited if you sat beside the iconic Elizabeth Baird for two glorious uninterrupted hours, watched the talented Emily Richards drizzle her name in chocolate, piped batter alongside the all-knowing Susan Sampson and talked muffins with prolific author/editor Jennifer Mackenzie?

In between mouthfuls of macarons and potentially addictive chocolate pearls, I scribbled enough notes to fill a small binder.  So I’m breaking my afternoon of chocolate nirvana into a few of posts, which I’ll share with you over the next little while. After all, too much chocolate in one seating will spoil your dinner. Plus, I get to relive the joy a few more times.

Did I mention I sat beside Elizabeth Baird?

Piping macarons

Elizabeth Baird pipes macarons with the help of Derrick Tu Tan Pho

The first dish Derek made was the classic macaron. Most macarons I’ve tasted were more sweet than flavorful, but Derrick’s were rich and intense. The top quality chocolate made all the difference. The ganache filling was so delicious you’d want to eat it with a spoon — which is exactly how Elizabeth enjoyed hers. I followed suit — just so she wouldn’t feel self-conscious. Yup, that’s me. Always falling on the culinary sword — or spoon, in this case.

Despite their fussy-looking construction, macarons are fairly easy. The only trick lies in the piping, which I eventually mastered. With a bit of help from Derrick.

Piping macarons at Bonnie Gordon

Right after piping, Derrick dusted his unbaked macarons with gold flakes. The gold flakes can withstand up to 600F, so put them on while the batter is still sticky. But don’t feel you have to get fancy. These decadent sandwiches are enough on their own. Feeling inspired? Here are Derrick’s tips and recipe…

Derrick’s Macaron Tips

  • Use icing sugar instead of granulated sugar. Standard white sugar takes too much time to melt while icing sugar (also known as powdered sugar or confectioners sugar) has 23% corn starch and helps hold the cookie together.
  • If you want coloured macarons (providing you’re make a flavour other than chocolate), add the colouring to the almond flour and sugar. Food colouring can collapse the egg whites if you add it to them directly.
  • Parchment paper can flap about in a convection oven. “Glue” the parchment to the baking sheet with a dot of batter at the corners and the middle of the sheet.
  • When piping the macaron batter, hold the tip in your dominant hand so the batter flows by itself and isn’t forced out.
  • Before baking, let the macarons sit for 30 to 45 minutes. This allows them to form a crust, which gives them the classic “skirt”.

A variety of macarons on chocolate pearls

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Derrick’s Decadent Chocolate Macarons with Ganache

Recipe provided by Derrick Tu Tan Pho with some of his tips worked into the instructions.

Makes 60 macarons

Macaron Batter

  • 7 egg whites, at room temperature
  • 1/3 cup (50 g) icing sugar
  • 1 tsp lemon juice
  • 3 cups powdered sugar
  • 2 cups almond powder (ground almonds)
  • 6 tbsp cocoa powder (Derrick used Cacao Barry Extra Brute)
  1. In a bowl, beat the egg whites with 1/3 cup icing sugar and lemon juice until firm. Just add all the ingredients at once and start the beating slowly. When the sugar has been incorporated, increase the speed until egg whites form peaks.
  2. Sift the 3 cups icing sugar, almond powder and cocoa powder over the whipped egg whites.
  3. Mix with a spatula until malleable and shiny. Don’t worry about the batter collapsing.
  4. Using a pastry bag (or a milk bag with a hole cut in the corner*).
  5. Set the macarons aside, uncovered, for 30 to 45 minutes to form a crust. While the macarons dry, preheat the oven to 300F.
  6. Bake for 12 minutes in a convection oven or 15 minutes in a conventional oven.

Dark Chocolate Ganache

  • 1 cup whipping cream (35%)
  • 2 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 1 1/2 cups dark chocolate (Derek used Cacao Barry St. Domingue “Origine” Chocolate Couverture with 70% cocoa)
  1. In a pot, place the butter and cream and heat to just a simmer.
  2. Pour over the chocolate. Wait 30 to 45 seconds.
  3. Using a whisk, stir from the centre out, in one direction, to blend the cream, butter and chocolate. Be sure to stir. Do not beat the mixture.
  4. Chill for 30 or so minutes.
  5. Once the ganache and macarons are cooled, pipe the ganache onto a macaron. Top with a second macaron to form a sandwich.
  6. Macarons keep for 2 days in the refrigerator — if they last that long.

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*Note to non-Canadian readers. Yes, you read it right. A milk bag. Milk comes in bags in Canada. And cartons. And bottles. We also call whole milk homo milk (short for homogenized), but that’s another story…

No Comments
  • Robin Smart
    Posted at 17:16h, 05 January

    OMG. Even I know who Elizabeth Baird is!! I am properly impressed.
    I can’t wait for you to make these for us. Who needs yoga when you have Derrick’s Decadent Chocolate Macarons with Ganache??
    Love from the least cooking sister.

  • jodi (bloomingwriter)
    Posted at 21:47h, 05 January

    I’m sure they are delicious, but I can’t get past the colour…I hate artificially coloured food, so I’m thinking I’ll skip the food colouring part. Coconut…chocolate…mmmmmmm.

  • Cheryl Arkison
    Posted at 09:11h, 06 January

    What a smart idea to use a milk bag!

    And what an amazing experience, macarons aside. Very jealous out here.

  • Charmian Christie
    Posted at 15:03h, 06 January

    @Robin Smart, uh, I think one needs yoga so one can eat Derrick’s Decandent Chocolate Macarons with Ganache without having to buy bigger clothes. It’s just a theory. Wanna test it?

  • Charmian Christie
    Posted at 15:09h, 06 January

    @jodi (bloomingwriter), I hear you. I featured the red macaron since it showed off the ganache better than the chocolate version. Surprisingly, I couldn’t taste the food colouring, which I often can. I know there are natural food colours out there. I should ask Derrick what he used. He uses top drawer ingredients so I can’t imagine him going cheap of red food dye 🙂

    Regardless, the chocolate recipe I posted doesn’t require any colouring. It’s really rich — kind of like “That Cake” of yours. And the coconut idea sounds pretty good, too!

  • Charmian Christie
    Posted at 15:14h, 06 January

    @Cheryl Arkison, I thought the milk bag was a great idea, too. I don’t buy milk in bags (I only use milk in my morning latte) but it makes me wonder if I should be asking my sister to save hers…

    It was a great experience. Derrick was amazingly knowledgeable and personable. That alone would have been enough. To find myself in a room of “students” such as these was the ganache between the macarons. I’m still pinching myself.

  • Julie
    Posted at 00:38h, 07 January

    Love macarons (the good, not just sweet) ones almost as much as I adore Elizabeth Baird! I so wanted to be her when I grew up. Still do.

    And I’d love to master the macaron… I’ve never made one that worked out!

  • Julie
    Posted at 00:40h, 07 January

    P.S. Great idea to use a milk bag! Since we out west don’t have milk bags (miss that about my Grandma’s house in Windsor) I use zip-lock freezer bags, sealed and with a corner snipped off. Great for frosting, melted chocolate, meringue, marshmallows…

  • Charmian Christie
    Posted at 10:25h, 07 January

    @Julie, I thought you were Calgary’s Elizabeth Baird 🙂

    I’m sure you will master the macaron in no time. If you do try Derrick’s recipe or tricks, I’d love to know how yours turn out.

  • Charmian Christie
    Posted at 10:28h, 07 January

    @Julie, oh, that’s a great idea! I’m the only one in our house to drink milk (in my latte) so I buy it one litre at a time. I will try your Ziplock trick. Thanks so much for sharing this tip!

    And it’s interesting you don’t have bags of milk out west. Funny how packaging changes from province to province let alone country to country.

  • Crystal
    Posted at 21:22h, 18 April

    I have cream of tartar, can I use that instead of lemons? And how much do I use in place of the lemon juice?

  • Charmian Christie
    Posted at 21:57h, 18 April

    Interesting question. The substitution usually goes the other way. People have lemon juice but no cream of tartar. However, I don’t see why the reverse wouldn’t work.

    The rule of thumb is 1 tsp cream of tartar can be replaced by 1 tbsp of lemon juice, so reversing the process, I’d guess 1/3 tsp cream of tartar could replace the lemon juice in this recipe.

    Let me know how your macarons turn out!